As someone who has led a skincare company for more than two decades, I've had the privilege of addressing a wide range of skin concerns. Part of our consultation process involves delving into the underlying causes of our clients' skin issues.
Recently, a client came to us with highly reactive and mildly inflamed skin, coupled with congestion and blemish activity on her cheeks and nose. She expressed frustration as she noticed that no matter which products she used (excluding our own brands), her skin reacted negatively. She was particularly concerned about her "under-eye" area, where she observed slight discoloration and tiny bumps.
Here's where our expertise in deciphering ingredient lists and our penchant for a little detective work prove invaluable.
First, we examined the number of products the client was using, which amounted to a whopping 12! Upon scrutinizing the ingredients in these products, we discerned two common themes. Every single product contained either comedogenic ingredients or various acids. One of the products was an 11% acid peel, with a recommendation to be left on overnight.
While we advocate the use of acid-based products for effective facial exfoliation, this client was severely over-exfoliating.
Additionally, she experienced adverse reactions to the chemical SPF product she applied to her compromised skin.
So, what were the issues with the client's at-home skincare regimen?
Comedogenic ingredients tend to accumulate in pores and oil glands, leading to skin congestion. This could manifest as pimples, blackheads, and cholesterol deposits, similar to what our client had under her eyes. Examples of comedogenic ingredients include silicones like Dimethicone, heavy oils such as Coconut oil, Mineral oil, or dense butters like Cocoa or Shea butter. When in doubt, it's prudent to scrutinize how a specific ingredient rates concerning a particular skin concern.
More concerning was the fact that with an abundance of acids in her routine, this client was excessively exfoliating, causing damage to her skin barrier function. This left her skin vulnerable to environmental sensitivities, perfumes in her products, and bacterial infections. The acids in her products included Glycolic, Lactic, and Salicylic acids – all excellent when used in moderation but problematic when used multiple times per day or left on the skin for extended periods.
How did we resolve this skincare dilemma?
Our solution: "Less is More!" For this client, it was crucial to repair her skin barrier function, maintain skin hydration, and safeguard her skin from sun exposure.
We streamlined her skincare routine to include the following products:
- Gentle Jelly Cleanser: This cleanser delivers a thorough cleanse without stripping or drying the skin.
- Vitae Skin Renewal: Providing hydration and ingredients to support and repair the skin's barrier function while offering some effective anti-aging benefits.
- Solar Defense 30: This product shields the skin from UV damage using a Zinc and Titanium mix, thereby eliminating problematic chemical SPF ingredients.
We significantly reduced the frequency of acid use and recommended a weekly acid exfoliation, with one modification: apply for 2-3 minutes, then gently rinse away.
The results speak for themselves. Our client's skin has beautifully repaired itself. With a restored barrier function, inflammation and reactivity have significantly diminished. Her skin is now well-hydrated and has a fresh, healthy appearance. The under-eye bumps are no longer a concern, and we are delighted to see her skin in such excellent condition!
Are you experiencing skin issues? We offer complimentary product consultations. Call 250.590.5459 today!